Walking Day # 3

Oct 15, 2023 Puente de Domingo Florez to O Barco de Valdeorras.  19km.  6 hrs walking. 

So here’s the story.  I’ve been having a really hard time carrying my pack which is 25+ so last night at the Hostel La Torre we arranged to have a taxi driver take our backpacks to our destination Hostel Mayo.  What a treat to start off with a little bounce in our steps without the weight.

All day we walked in a gentle on and off drizzle with ponchos making us wetter on the inside than if we had not had them on.  Oh no, do I sound like a complaining pilgrim?   It’s not easy even with a day pack. This entire region is fastinating to me or anyone interesting in geology.  It is the “slate capital” of Spain.  They export to all over Europe for the slate roofs.  Our Camino paths vary from sharp chards to vertical layers and slick horizontal layers.   Cool stuff.   

The steep parts we’re up from the Rio Sil though grape vineyards and back down to the river a few times and we are 20 k closer to our destination and are enjoying our time together.   Funny how 56 years of marriage can make us kinder to each other.

          Here is a shot of our elevation for the day as my watch battery was dying toward the end.

We arrived too late for dinner ..it’s Sunday and everything closes at 5 accept a few bars so …I guess it’s will have to do!

Sunday night cards in a local bar.

Walking Day 2 LAS MEDULAS TO PUENTE DE DOMINGO FLORES

Walking Day 2 - Las Medulas to Puente de Domingo Flores 13.5km

Las Medulas is a region where extensive gold mining was carried out by the Romans during the first 3 centuries AD uses water hydraulics.  Water was brought in some areas from over a 100 kms.  Massive tunnels were dug w many branches.  Once the water poured in at great speed and volume the mountain side would collapse and the gold could be panhandled like the 49ers did in California.  We took a 3k circular walk to observe 1 of the remaining mine entrances titled “The Big Hole”.  Along the way old and new chestnut trees were dropping nuts and locals were defying the signs and gathering chestnuts. 

The area is filled with mountain “needles” which are the remnants of the hydraulic  mining. 

From here we returned to the pension for our backpacks and rejoined the Camino.  We decided on a short day and walked to a small town on the Rio Sil, downstream of Ponferrada. Although there was elevation gain leaving Las Medulas the majority of the walk was down hill to the river. There were no pilgrims on the walk but the scenery was beautiful and the day warm and sunny.

A look back from where we came.

Arriving in Flores we saw a large pile of slate which always fascinates JL.  

Tonight’s hostel is complete with bar and restaurant.  We are enjoying the stay. Tomorrow is another short day.

Day 1 - Ponferrada to Las Medulas

Walking Day 1   Ponferrada to Borrenes   17.4km - Elevation gain 297m

Friday October 13, 2023

We started walking just before dawn in slightly chilly air and intermittent drizzle after cafe and croissants. Within a half hour we were out of town heading up a gradual grade along the Rio Sil. It felt good to be walking again on Spanish trails.  But our pace is slower and the uppies seem more arduous.

As usual Al would get ahead of JL and would wait for her. At one point he rounded a curve and waited but JL took a while to catch up  When she did she explained that she had tripped and fell when her backpack got ahead of her, and not wanting to break another wrist, now has a bump on her head.  We are walking late in the harvest season and find very few “candies” along the way. No blackberries,  but we did find a few very sweet wine grapes.



The Camino Invierno is less traveled (only saw 1 bike today).  There were few locals about the small villages we passed through but the colors and cleanliness reminded us of why we enjoy the walk.

Of course in any town you can always find a good deal that needs just a little TLC!

Most of today’s walk was on dirt road w the familiar Camino markers to guide the way through Hobitt land.

Today’s walk should have taken us up to Castillo Corantel. This 9th century castle is +300m up (and 5km more) than an alternate route and just too much for our 1st day.

The alternate route was no picnic either.  Its elevation gain was 90m in under 500m or about a 20% grade. This area had plenty of slate for the taking. 

Once crested and back on the Camino we walked the final 1.5k into Borrenes in search of housing. No alburgies, and the only hotel full. The hotel owner called the next town, found us a room, and the owner picked us up. So the last 7k for the day was by private car.  Now in Las Medulas and exhausted!

The graph below only partially represents the day as JL’s Strava died before completion.   Current elevation 2420 ft.   Walked ended at 10.5 miles.



10-12-2023

            We are hanging out in Ponferrada today resting and getting psyched to begin walking tomorrow .  The trip from LA to here was exhausting .   We did not realize that we were flying into Madrid on a National Holiday.  Our plan had been to take a bus direct from T-4 @ airport to Ponferrada .  Easy!   Not so.    All busses and all trains were sold out.  Eventually we rented a car for the 4 hour drive to our Hotel here yesterday afternoon.   No sleep and sitting for 24 hrs is does not make cheerful pilgrims.

          Coffee and a brisk morning walk around town finding the way we walked 13 years ago from the Frances Camino and the way out on the Invierno so we don’t get lost tomorrow morning puts us in better spirits.

            

S De coimpressing in Ponferrada