Walking Day 6 Pontevedra to Caldas De Reis

It is Saturday and even though it’s been raining on and off all day there were many groups of runners on the paths.  Use of the paths for local recreation is part of the culture around here.

10-21-2023.        Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis- 23 kms or 14 miles.

Breakfast at the Hotel and backpacks tagged and ready for the transfer company to pickup in the Lobby by 8:00.   It was still pretty dark when we left but the city has so many lights and lots of  cafes open early plus Pilgrims everywhere.  Noted also Chapels are open stamping passports. 

There were also tiny blue lights embedded in the granite tiles  on the path out of the city.  Looks like it would be a cool city to live in.
Sunrise just as we crossed the river going out of town.

Today we chatted with several Pilgrims that we had met yesterday and met several new ones.  We also shared the Camino with numerous groups of local bicycle clubs.  

The walk was pretty flat relatively speaking and much easier without the weight of our full packs, however; it started feeling long around 11:30.  We stopped then for a coffee and shared a slice of Camino cake, which is a dense Almond cake.  Really good and energizing.

Some of the paths were close to the railroad tracks, some went up into the forest crossing streams and others though miles of private small grape vineyards, separated by cornfields and small communities.   We also walked by lots of granite houses with beautiful gardens and fruit trees which included Persimmons, pears and apples.

Open church in small town.

We’ve been seeing lots of these but have no idea what the are.  They are getting tiny narrow green leaves.  They seem to be separating fields.

                                       Granite poles hold up the wires that support the vines.

Finally coming into town.  Too many miles for me even without the pack.  Tomorrow is too be a little shorter but it will be quite a bit more elevation.  We got in by 3:00 today so we did have time to spare.   

Waking Day 5 REDONDELLO TO PONTEVEDRA

Camino Portuguese

Walking Day 5 - Redondela to Pontevedra - 20.6 km - 295 m ascent w backpacks 

October 20, 2023

Private room was nice but a little chilly.  Owner said she had ordered some type of heater but had not arrived.  Hopefully the next guests will not have the same experience. All night was a torrential downpour, but by our 0800 departure it was dry w occasional drizzle.  We found our way to breakfast and enjoyed the cafe con leche grande and croissants as we watched fellow pilgrims walk by. Once underway it was steep downhill to the river outlet to the sea.



After a couple k we were out of town and walking on country roads and trails. There were some steep uppies and some of all large stones. It was challenging.

There was rest stop w fun pilgrim cutouts. Note the shoes to the right.  Here we saw a large black luxury coach autobus with Camino yellow arrow and outline of the Santiago Cathedral on its side.  It was catering in a group of pilgrims that were walking with light or no packs.  We have seen it again and again.

The region is granite.  Gone is the slate of the Invierno.  Large pieces are used for all types of construction.  We past many stockpiles and a couple of workers constructing a retaining wall.

We clicked off many k before arriving at an alternate route along a winding creek.  This was a delightful diversion, although a little muddy.  We met a Canadian lady walking rapidly and very chatting.  She snapped our picture before trekking on.

The last 2 km took us onto city streets and eventually our hotel destination.  Once showered and refreshed we made hotel reservations for Saturday night and booked transport for our backpacks. That done we explored the city, finding a new sweater for JL ( happy birthday), fresh roasted chestnuts, some   pricey chocolate, and dinner.

All is good on the Camino!



SWITCHING FROM THE INVIERNO TO THE PORTUGUES ROUTE

Redondela

    

Nice but cold 

10-19-2023-  Giving up on the remote Invierno but willing to see if the Portuguese is any more forgiving.   We decided to take a train from Monforte  to Redondela on the coast today.   When buying our tickets yesterday we found out that the tracks were “broken” so they would bus us to Ourense then transfer us to the train.   

It was a cold wet dark morning walk at 7:00 in a moderate rain about a mile to the station.  I can’t get used to sunrise being around 8:30 but it’s still pretty dark at 9:00.   The ride was beautiful coming down out of the mountains, through the  forests and following a river most of the way with several Hydro electric dams.

Once close to Portuguese route several Pilgrims boarded the train.  Several complaining about injuries, blisters and just not being prepared for all of this rain.  It’s like a different world over here.  Lots more Pilgrim friendly, at least that’s my first impression.  So far today; however, the streets here in town are still really steep and narrow. It’s funny to watch an Amazon Prime truck turn around at an intersection outside are air B&B.  (Bed and Bath). Some of the streets are so narrow they are mostly one way and  have stairs along the sides so you can walk without sliding.

This one is wider than most but I can see why cars here are tiny.

Our plan is to head out tomorrow on the Portuguese route with our packs unless it’s flooded.

A change in plans- Regrouping in Monforte de Lemos

10-17-2023.  We did end up finding a place open for dinner which was delightful.  The first salad we’ve found in days.   

   Woke up to a windy wet morning and needed to be out of the Pension by 8:00.  There was a small cafe/bar open next door so we contemplated our coming day over cafe-lache.  

            

It’s clear I can not carry my pack over the next several stages of the Inviernos route.   There is no system set for transporting packs ahead like on some of the more popular routes.  The distances between lodging and the steepness of the terrain is just more than I feel comfortable with so in keeping with “one day at a time theme” we called a cab to take us though miles of beautiful mountains and forests to the town of Monforte de Lemos.  We  checked in to the Cardinal ****Hotel along the river for 2 nights to rest and regroup.  

 Photos from our walks around town yesterday.

The Paradore on top of the hill.

Looking down on the town.

Remains in the old Jewish Quarters

      

                           Hotel Cardinal 

              With view looking out onto the river .

10-18-2023

Plenty of hot water for us and we just got our clean  dry laundry delivered to our room.

Our view from the hotel at breakfast this morning.   It’s still raining a little but the ducks are happy and so are we.

Walking Day 4

Oct. 16, 2023.    O Barco - A Rua de Valderorras.   

17 k or 11 miles with our Backpacks.  

We started off  at 7:30 which was before sunrise.  Luckily we found a cafe for coffee and another croissant.  It was a little chilly but one warms up fast walking with a heavy pack.

Have you ever seen more beautiful petunias? 

Today’s walk was relatively short and not too steep thankfully.  We walked mostly along the river Sil and got to see some of the slate tile manufacturing plants.  Huge saws with lots of water cooling the blades.  Makes you wonder how many blades they go though.   

Finally reaching our destination after walking up to see an old church that wasn’t open.   Stopped for lunch and a cold drink before locating a Pension to stay in to night.

These places are basic I guess you might say.  A clean bed and blankets.  3rd floor walk up, water that doesn’t get more than luke warm, no other services or food and no heat.  So no way to dry wet clothes.  Did I say it’s raining again this afternoon and expected to rain for the foreseeable future?

No “early” Pilgrim menus in these little towns like on the other Caminos either.   What’s really missing is all of  the socialization at albergues and along the route during the long days.   It’s a lonely trail with only a few dedicated albergues open. We actually met another Pilgrim today, only the 2nd one and he is from Germany.  The first one we met yesterday from France who had begun in Barcelona.

The Invierno route is so different from any of the other Caminos that we have done.  Steeper and longer stages plus less services, oh yes, and my decreased stamina are making this Camino more difficult.

 Al and I are re-thinking our next days.  This is suppose to be enjoyable, not just surviving.